Dark spots — also called hyperpigmentation or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — are one of the most common skin concerns, and one of the most frustrating. They can take months to fade even with the right products. Here's what actually works.
What causes dark spots?
Dark spots are caused by an overproduction of melanin — the pigment that gives skin its colour. This overproduction can be triggered by sun exposure, acne or blemishes, hormonal changes, inflammation or skin injury. The most common types are post-acne marks (dark spots left behind after a spot heals), sun spots and melasma (hormonally driven patches of pigmentation).
What actually fades dark spots?
Several well-researched ingredients have been shown to help fade hyperpigmentation with consistent use.
Vitamin C is an antioxidant that inhibits melanin production and helps brighten overall skin tone. Most effective at concentrations of 2% and above.
Kojic Acid is derived from fungi and is one of the most effective ingredients for targeting dark spots specifically. It works by inhibiting the enzyme responsible for melanin production.
Niacinamide at 5% has been shown to reduce the transfer of melanin to skin cells, gradually fading existing dark spots and preventing new ones from forming.
Glycolic and lactic acid speed up cell turnover, which helps fade surface pigmentation faster by removing dead skin cells more quickly.
What order should you use them?
Use vitamin C in the morning — it works synergistically with SPF to protect against the UV exposure that worsens pigmentation. Use exfoliating acids like glycolic acid in the evening, 2 to 3 times per week. Niacinamide can be used morning and evening. Kojic acid can be used in either a serum or an exfoliating formula.
The most important thing — SPF
None of these ingredients will work properly if you're not wearing SPF every single day. UV exposure is the primary driver of dark spots and will actively worsen hyperpigmentation even while you're trying to treat it. Daily SPF is non-negotiable in any brightening routine.
How long does it take?
Realistically, 8 to 12 weeks of consistent daily use before you see significant fading. Some deeper pigmentation can take 6 months or longer. Patience and consistency are the most important factors.
STARLUXE brightening products
- Brightening Radiance Serum with Kojic Acid — targets dark spots directly with kojic acid, vitamin C and vitamin E
- Pigment Perfecting Serum — lightweight serum for an even, luminous complexion
- Niacinamide Gel Moisturiser — daily 5% niacinamide to fade spots and prevent new ones
- Vitamin C Serum — 2% vitamin C for daily antioxidant protection and brightening
- Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Toner — speeds up cell turnover to reveal brighter skin faster